It started, as these things often do, with a craving for adventure. My friend and I had been wanting to go on a camping trip, so we packed our bags, headed to the bus station in Edinburgh, picked a destination on a whim, and hopped on a bus heading south. Destination? Berwick-upon-Tweed. We arrived in a beautiful little border town with lively streets, historic buildings and more bridges than seemed strictly necessary. If you want to know more about Berwick, I’ve written a full guide that you can check out here. As the afternoon turned to evening, we started looking for a place to pitch our tent. However, since wild camping isn’t allowed in England, we set off on foot… to Scotland.
Chapter 1: Berwick’s Many Bridges
We left the centre of Berwick and followed the river, walking under bridge after bridge. There were so many! Big ones, old ones, tall ones, stone ones… It felt like every hundred metres there was another one towering above us. They were so beautiful though, especially in the late afternoon sunlight. The further we got from the town, the quieter it became. The houses disappeared out of view, the path got wilder, and it started to feel like we were actually going on an adventure. Just a coupl’a friends, the River Tweed, and whatever was waiting up ahead of us.
Chapter 2: The Dark Woods
After a while, the riverside path started to narrow, and we found ourselves heading into a patch of woods. As the trees blocked out most of the sky, everything suddenly felt much darker. One minute we were walking in golden light, the next we were under a canopy of branches, surrounded by shadows and rustling leaves. Everything got quiet quickly, and we started to wonder if this path would actually take us all the way to Scotland. With the sun low in the sky, and only a few hours left before nightfall, we didn’t want to end up stuck in these woods when it got dark. So we kept moving, following the river as best we could, hoping the path would clear again soon.
Chapter 3: The Crossing of the Stream
After a while, we came across a stream we could not cross. The lack of a bridge meant we had to leave the Tweed River behind and go inland. From that point on, we didn’t know if we’d find the Tweed again or even Scotland. To make things worse, the path disappeared altogether and was replaced by uneven ground and thick bushes. We had to push through the wilderness, brushing past twigs, leaves and nettles. Our legs were getting scratched, we were getting tired, and there was no sign of anyone or anything, just trees and that little stream still running beside us. We were deep in it now. No signs, no tracks, just us and the wild. And even though we were a bit knackered, it honestly felt like the best part of the journey so far. This was the adventure we’d been craving.
Chapter 4: Through Sheep Infested Lands
The landscape changed quickly, and before we knew it, we were walking through fields, suddenly surrounded by sheep eyeing us suspiciously. Suddenly, we noticed one poor sheep stuck on its back, struggling to get up. My friend helped it up, and it wandered off like nothing had happened. Giving that sheep a hand made the whole walk feel even more meaningful (sheep can suffocate if left on their backs for too long). The sun was now low, shadows stretching, and even though we weren’t exactly sure where we were, Scotland was definitely getting closer.
Chapter 5: The Promised Land
At last, we crossed the border and made it into Scotland, where we could finally set up camp without worrying about breaking the law. We arrived just in time for the sunset and quickly pitched our tent on the banks of the River Tweed. Dinner was simple: baguette and canned spaghetti, but after the day we’d had, it tasted like a feast. With sheep softly bleating in the background and the gentle sounds of the river flowing nearby, we settled down and fell asleep peacefully, surrounded by the quiet wildness we had been chasing all day.
Final Thoughts
We’d set off with no plan and no campsite, but that’s exactly what made this trip brilliant. Somewhere between Berwick’s bridges and a red tent pitched by the river, we found the kind of adventure we’d been craving; quiet, a bit wild, and full of small surprises. This journey was full of uncertainty and small decisions made on the go, but that’s exactly what made every moment feel more real. You don’t need to go halfway across the world or have everything figured out: sometimes a random bus ride, a crunchy baguette, and a stretch of countryside is all it takes.
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